Submitted by Veronica Hampton
University in Chicago. I'm an anthropology and political science
double major (the only black anthropologist in my class--I wish
there were more of us) and the only other language that I speak
besides English is Arabic.
I started off traveling in Europe when I was sixteen or seventeen,
where I stayed for a month in both Spain and France. Like most
of you, I became hooked on traveling after that. Since then, I've
been to Mexico, Belize, Switzerland, Greece, Egypt, Jordan,
Lebanon, and Syria.
Contrary to popular belief, traveling around the Middle East was
amazing! My family was so afraid for me to go, especially
during this political climate, however I found that I couldn?t have
gone at a better time. I learned so much about the
Palestinian/Israeli conflict, so much so that when I watch CNN
and Fox News it just makes me sick to
see how they portray everything that is going on. Of all my
travels, I'd have to say the Middle East was the best yet.
Jordanians and Egyptians, especially, are the friendliest people
I've ever met in my life. I experienced total reverse culture shock
upon my return to the United States.
So, how was it being a Black American in the Middle East?
Well, I'll tell you this much--skin color does matter. And you
see it as soon as you enter Cairo and see billboards that express
how fair skin is much more preferred than dark (i.e. a cosmetic
line called "Fair and Lovely") Women wear tons of make-up that
is usually ten shades lighter than their own skin color--take a
look at their hands and arms in comparison to their faces.
Arabic, my mannerisms and clothes gave me away as well as my hair and eyes (which I guess threw a lot of them off). I have dark skin,
curly brown hair and my dad's Gray-brown eyes, so I guess I look pretty weird to them to begin with. I would get confused stares as
well as very seductive stares from men.
The staring is what ultimately drove me crazy--people stare (especially the men) without shame. But when I was out with my white
friends, I noticed I was either totally ignored or treated like I couldn?t speak English (Egyptian men would ask my white friends
questions about me even though I would be standing right there). However, as soon as I opened my mouth and they heard my
unmistakably American accent, things changed drastically! I might as well have been speaking in tongues, because they were so
amazed. From that point on, I was treated like royalty. I remember being in a taxi once and the driver asked me where I was from. I
say "Chicago" and he says "Chicago, America!?", after I replied "yes", he said: "but, but, you are not white, you are black!" Then he
asked me where my parents were from and I said "The US" and he couldn?t believe it. He had to stop his taxi and tell one of his friends
who was standing at a near by corner to come over and see me.
To tell you the truth, sometimes I got a kick out of throwing people off. I told some of them that I was from Haiti, Dominican Republic,
Ghana, Nigeria, and even New Zealand! Others guessed that I was Moroccan, Egyptian, Nigerian, Brazilian, or Ethiopian. It was kind
of fun.
However, the overall vibe I got was that Black Africans are not held in very high regard. Most Black Africans in Egypt who are not
native to the land are Sudanese. The Nubian population can be found in Aswan which is located in Upper Egypt ("aswad" is the Arabic
word for Black, and the suffix "an" indicates land or territory, so the literal meaning of Aswan is "land of Blacks" or "Black land". It is
very beautiful and the people are lovely there. I felt so at home, not to mention I got my hair done and it looked so bomb!
Although you still see many beautiful shades of brown in Egypt, for the most part, Egyptians look Arab. I also noticed that often times
the Egyptians with the lighter skin shades tended to be individuals from the more upper class groups.
Egypt, so most American travelers can live like a king
while visiting Egypt. Because of this, I found myself in
the best of the best restaurants, Spas, Night Clubs.
But usually there was never another dark skinned
person in sight besides me.
Also, I attended the American University while I was
there and for anyone who knows this place, it?s a bit
like the Egyptian version of "Clueless". These kids are
filthy rich and their parents are usually diplomats or
ambassadors. Education is undoubtedly reserved for
the wealthy, so the only Black Africans I ran into were
a couple of guys from Nigeria who became some of
my best friends and whose fathers also happened to
work for the United Nations (again, people with lots
of money).
Women travelers to the Middle East should know that being older than about 16, single, and traveling alone invites numerous offerings
for marriage. Egyptian men never seemed to understand why my husband was not with me and why I was traveling alone. I can't tell
you how many times I was offered 200 camels for my hand in marriage. Also men would yell things to me like "Hello sexy
chocolate!", "Hello Janet Jackson!" "Come home with me Beyonce!" (yea, not even joking).
Also, by nature I'm very inquisitive and I can't keep myself quiet if there is something I don't understand and want to know. This
behavior in women is unheard of to most Egyptian men who are used to seeing their women in head coverings clinging close their
husbands. I guess I was a sight to see as I walked up to random men and asked for directions and suggestions for places to eat with
ease and confidence.
The one thing I realized while being in the Middle East, is just how much of an American mentality I have. Before my trip, you couldn't
have convinced me that I was "so American", because when I think of "American" I don't identify with that personally. However, as a
young woman in Egypt, my western mentality was definitely exposed for all to see. I couldn't even help it! Most American women are
used to interacting with men on a regular basis, but in Egypt, its very different.
When I walked into a restaurant with my male friend, I was not even looked at by the waiters. They immediately addressed him, and
only him, throughout the entire evening. When I started to give the waiter my order, he turned to my male friend and asked him "What
will your wife like to have tonight?" I felt as if I was being "put back in my place". You should have seen the look on my face.
As an American Black woman, I'd never felt this way before. I almost couldn't argue. However, the longer I lived there, the more I
realized that this behavior is only done out of respect. I had to understand that I was in a different place and I had to respect how
certain things were done there.
so much to do that you will have to stay there for a while to get
a good taste of what they have. Well for starters, in Cairo
there are plenty of entertainment spots such as the Cairo Jazz
club. Here, you will find amazing mixes of Egyptian, Nubian,
and African jazz beats sometimes over English or Arabic
singing. I went there numerous times and it became my hang
out. They also have guest bands that come in on various
occasions from Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco and other places
around Africa. Umm, then for cultural entertainment, there is
traditional Sufi dancing at the Mohamad Ali mosque--really
cool! Then you got belly dancers shaking their thing all over in
Cairo--you can always find them on felucca rides. Feluccas
are similar to Italian gandolas. And taking a little night cruise
on the Nile with a bottle of wine and some music is a must!
Its so nice. I swear, Cairo never sleeps. There are lots of
dance clubs there too. They play popular Egyptian music,
techno, and hip hop.
If you visit Cairo I know you'll probably want to ride a camel,
but, horse back riding around the pyramids at night is so much
more fun. I also spent weekends camping, and four-wheeling
in the desert near the Pyramids. Amazing! Also, in Cairo the
place for all of your gift shopping is Egypt's oldest market:
Khan El Khalili. Its a crazy place, crawling with sellers who
are constantly in your face trying to get you to buy whatever
they have. Here is where you'll feel most like a tourist. I
suggest you try to go there with an Arabic speaking person so
that you can get the best deal you can.
located in the middle of the city and you can see Cairo for miles out from that very spot.
As far as being an African American male traveling through the Middle East, I called up one of my guy friends who went to Egypt a
year ago. I asked him how he was treated by people. He told me that because of the way he dressed and his american accent, his
experience was similar to mine. Most people thought he was a rapper, or an athlete and even asked for his autograph. He said a few
times, he would get some dirty looks from the military police, but they didn't bother him and this type of reaction was very minimal.
Most of the time, he said he was treated with much respect, especially when he was with a lady friend. He most likely did all the
activities that are reserved for the wealthy like eating at really expensive restaurants and going to really nice clubs that are normally too
expensive for Egyptians.
And like I said earlier, money does talk. And after that, skin color lays in the background. However, I can't say that you won't get
comments thrown at you in Arabic that you might not understand. You'll never know if they're good or bad and sometimes you'd
rather not know. But for the most part, I guarantee you that you'll feel safe and welcomed. The most you'll get is probably people
yelling things at you like "Hey, 50 cent!", or "Did you know 2-Pac?" since most people often associate Black Americans with
rappers and rap music, since thats all they see on MTV in their countries.
them with open arms and warmth. They are the most helpful people and
hospitable beyond belief. As soon as you step off the plane, all you hear is
"Welcome, Welcome". Even if you?re sitting at a bus stop minding your
own business, someone may come up to you and just say "Welcome,
welcome to my country". They are very proud of their culture and history
and love to introduce you to everything Egypt has to offer.
Don't be alarmed if you end up in someone's living room drinking tea,
eating baklava, holding someone's screaming kid, and watching aunts
Fathima, Leila, and Esra belly dance to some Amr Diab-Egypt's most
famous pop singer.
article. I only scratched the surface with just talking about Egypt.
The places I visited were all so different and each country had something amazing to offer!