All the way to Timbuktu: Memories of Mali By Bianca Wilson
				I lived in Mali for over two years.  When I arrived it was my first visit. To begin, going to Timbuktu was memorable.  If you can, don't fly there.  Although it's the most convenient way to get there, but it is far less scenic and interesting.  Take a penisse (canoe), cruise the Niger, sleep in the desert... it's wonderful BUT if you’re going to do it this way, make arrangements with a company that will cook all meals and have transportation waiting when you dock (about 20 miles outside of Timbuktu).  As far as "culture shock", being called a "toubabou" or "tubabu" like the rest of the Westerners was shocking, especially as I learned to speak a few of the indigenous languages.
Furthermore, being an American in a Muslim culture took some getting used to.  As an American, I was treated as different things by different people.  Many assumed I was wealthy and must be from California or New York (I'm from Tennessee).  All in all, I was treated with respect from most people (with the exception of aggressive people at the train station who assumed that as a woman I knew nothing and therefore needed help.  They would try to barter for me, or rip me off.  In Bamako (or anywhere for that matter), I don't suggest anyone go out alone - especially females.  Even on busy or active streets, there's so much going on, especially if you don't speak French or Bambara. If anything, I wish I had brushed up on my French more than I had.  Aside from that, I would like to advise people to exchange most of their money in France.  Mali doesn't have an exchange bureau and you’ll need money once you hit the ground.  Furthermore, few places accept credit cards  (I can't think of too many places that did besides Hotel Plaza and Le Relais).  Always keep a change of clothes and toiletries in your carry-on.  Odds are that your luggage will be lost or delayed, so a fresh change of clothes and a toothbrush never hurt...just in case.  Also Mali is one of the only countries I know of where you actually have to pay to leave! So always remember keep between 10-15 thousand CFA (the local currency) tucked away for your trip home.
Of the best places to stay, I highly recommend in Bamako (the nation's capital) the Hotel Plaza.  The rooms are very clean, affordable, and the cuisine (especially Italian) is fantastic!  Another good hotel/restaurant is Le Relais de Campagnard.  About 1/10 of a mile down from Le Relais is the restaurant Le Relax.  It's casual, got great pastries, ice cream, sandwiches, pizza, and more.  All these are in or near the Niarela quartier.  In the Sikasso region (where I lived and worked), I suggest the Hotel Zanga.  The rooms are quaint, the staff is friendly and eager to please, and there's quiet a sufficient restaurant.   There's a nice pool, too!
Although I've not been back to Mali since I left two years ago, I will definitely be back.  I still didn't see all of the country that I wanted to see because I had to work.  I would definitely encourage and recommend Mali to other Black travelers, especially since Mali is usually overlooked.  People tend to go to Senegal, the Gambia, and Ghana when seeking West Africa.  Mali, however, is a beautiful country that has as much personality. Living in Mali was the experience of a lifetime, and getting to host visitors from the States allowed me to share my experience and help them shape their own...all the while seeing Mali in their eyes.
	Return to Story Page