Backpacking through Europe
by: Thomas, from Washington, D.C.
I'm a 32 year old Black American male who spent 3 months in the summer of
2002 backpacking/hostelling throughout western Europe - including parts of
Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, and Finland.  I also made it to parts of the UK
(London, Glasgow, and Edinburgh). I absolutely love Europe! It?s full of
beautiful cities and architecture, winding mazes of streets, with endless amounts
of shops and cafes, and life everywhere. I had an amazingly wonderful time.  If
I were independently wealthy I would travel throughout Europe indefinitely.
Paris was my absolute favorite city, with Stockholm, Sweden coming in a very close second. I went to Paris on
three separate occasions to the equivalent of nearly 3 weeks -- a third of my trip.   And despite all I heard about
Parisian rudeness, I never experienced it.  And although I know it exists, there is not too much to fear in the
way of racism.  My favorite country was Italy.  I spent time in Milan, Venice, Genoa, Rome, Bologna,
Florence and the Cinque Terre.  The Italians were inquisitive, but also quite nice toward me.  They were
interested in learning about life in America, and curious if any of the American stereotypes held by Europeans
were true.  Everywhere I went the locals loved to engage me in conversation when they spoke English and
were also willing to help me with directions, suggestions, or other information in times of need.

I did learn some basic language phrases for most of the countries I visited and I'm certain it helped.  Unless you
have a talent for languages and you are able to speak basic phrases fluently, they will instantly peg you for a
tourist once you open your mouth, at which point the ones who can, will immediately switch to speaking
English.  I had feared the language barrier when considering my trip, but my fear was unfounded.  I had few
problems with language as most people spoke English.  Amongst young backpackers, English is the common
language and nearly all the people I met spoke nearly fluent English in addition to their own native language.  
Although I did take four years of German in high school, I often felt like the ignorant American.  What a shame
most Americans don't speak other languages.
I highly encourage all young Black travelers to visit
Western Europe.  There are black people
everywhere.  As a matter of fact there are enough
Blacks, mostly Africans, that locals may assume
you speak the local language.  No matter where I
went, when I approached someone in a shop or
restaurant, I was addressed in the local language.  
And I must say it was a pleasant shock, as a Black
American, to hear Blacks speaking fluent Dutch,
Flemish, Swedish, Norwegian, and Finnish.  I was
totally fascinated.

You will also learn a lot from other travelers from
around the world.
All of them enlightened me in some way about the history of their country, their local culture, youth culture
and music, and of course their views on America.  I also enlightened them a bit on life in America.  Some of
my fellow travelers were even surprised to learn that all Americans aren't rich, and that many of us don't live
like the people do on the TV show Friends.

My experiences in Northern Europe were positive and I had no problems with the locals at all -- Quite the
opposite actually.  All were courteous and helpful, and I received lots of smiles (my personal rule, when in
doubt (or receiving stares) SMILE.  I didn't know what to expect from Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and
Finland, except that they would be very "white".  I had read quite a lot about the reputed tolerance of Northern
Europeans/Scandinavians, but I still planned to exercise caution when I arrived there, just in case all I had read
was false.  Well, my slight reservations were unfounded as I had no problems whatsoever while there.  There
are African blacks (as well as some Caribbean blacks) there so the local population in the larger metropolitan
areas are seemingly somewhat used to seeing the occasional darker-skinned individual.  Still there are not a lot
of blacks (most of those I saw worked in fast food restaurants like McDonalds for example), so you will be
noticed -- but that doesn't necessarily suggest a negative connotation, you simply won't look like the majority
of the population.

Copenhagen, Denmark was my first venture into Northern Europe/Scandinavia, and I spent three days there.  
As I had everywhere I went during my trip, I stayed in a youth hostel (the Sleep-In-Heaven Hostel).  I met lots
and lots of people to explore Copenhagen with.  I dined at restaurants, went to the Tivoli Gardens, danced at
nightclubs, and explored several neighborhoods (including the infamous Christiania, and Pusher Street), both
with a group and alone.  I had no problems at all, and I quite liked Copenhagen.  From Copenhagen I took a
ferry to Malmo, Sweden.  From Malmo I took a train to Oslo, Norway.
Oslo was nice.  The city itself felt like a strange mix of a big village and a
cosmopolitan city.  I stayed at the Albertine Hostel (now known as the Anker
Hostel), which is located inside a hotel in the center of Oslo, and is a short
walking distance from the central train station.  This was an excellent home
base as it was central to everything, and close to bus and tram stops too.  I
walked everywhere though, as it seemed small enough to explore by foot.  
As for my limited contact with locals, all was positive.  I went grocery
shopping, asked locals for directions, recommendations for bars and
nightclubs, etc, and had no negative experiences.

I also spent four days in Stockholm.  Stockholm is absolutely gorgeous!? At
least on beautiful summer days.  I was told by those who have lived there
that I was lucky the weather was so uncharacteristically nice while I was
there (August 2002).  I stayed at the AF Chapman youth hostel on
Skeppsholman Island.  The hostel is actually an old ship converted into a
youth hostel.  Super cool!  My room on the ship had portholes that looked
out directly onto the water.  Crazy!
Stockholm was my second favorite city in Europe (western and Northern), second only to Paris.  It is simply a
beautiful, clean, cosmopolitan city with lots of culture and things to do and see.  I actually met an American
college basketball team while I was out dancing at a nightclub in Stockholm.  The team was none other than
Bobby Knight's Texas Tech Red Raiders.  They were touring Europe playing local teams wherever they went.  
The local women seemed to take a liking to all the tall basketball players (both black and white Americans).  
Upon return to the U.S. I would watch the Red Raiders play on television remembering that I had partied with
them in Stockholm, Sweden!  From Stockholm I took a ferry to Helsinki, Finland.

Helsinki, Finland was interesting.  In my opinion not nearly as pretty as Oslo, Bergen or Stockholm, but
"up-and-coming" in many respects as it seems the local government is attempting to improve the city (as large
scale construction around the city attests to).  Helsinki also seems (in my opinion) to have a large Russian
influence.  Not necessarily in architecture, but in the way the people look.  In my observation it seemed the
locals shared ethnic traits more so with Russians than with other Scandinavians.  Anyway, the highlight of my
Helsinki trip was meeting my five new Estonian friends Maria, Rosa, Eva, Brita, and Heleri (whom I'm still in
touch with to this day), my new Italian friend Giulia (also still in touch with), and my Austrian friends Katerina,
and Lisi.  I wound up going to Linnanmaki Amusement Park with the Estonian girls.  Got a few stares there,
but I didn't feel threatened or uncomfortable, I think they were simply curiosity stares.  Although I did see a
couple of black people in Helsinki, I think many in the park may have never crossed paths with a black person
in their daily lives.  Also, I walked hand in hand with one of the Estonian girls in particular, that may have
drawn stares too.  Rosa, although from Estonia, is part Finnish, and speaks fluent Finnish.  She taught me a few
basic Finnish phrases and expressions, and I used them with the ticket sellers at the ticket counters.  My use of
Finnish drew smiles and polite responses from the locals.  Also, we had random people take pictures of us at
the park with no negative reactions or incidents.
Turku, Finland was even less attractive than Helsinki, but I'm still glad
I went.  I went with Katerina and Lisi, my Austrian friends whom I
had met at the Sleep-In-Heaven hostel in Copenhagen.   Katerina and
Lisi were due to catch a ferry to Stockholm from Turku, so I went
along with them to say goodbye and see them off.  We spent a few
hours there, and had an interesting experience.  Katerina and Lisi
decided they wanted some ice cream from an ice cream stand.  I don't
like ice cream (crazy I know) so I didn't buy any.  I took a picture of
them as they were buying the ice cream, and captured a woman, a
local from Turku I assume, who happened to be in line to buy ice
cream too.  As we walked away from the ice cream stand, the woman
who had been in line behind Katerina and Lisi came from behind us
and handed me an ice cream cone, then quickly walked away without
saying anything.
It was a total shock for all three of us.  Katerina and Lisi asked me
what I had done to make this woman want to buy me ice cream.  I said
"I don't know, I didn't do anything."  I had to shout thank you to the
woman as she quickly walked away.  Strange.  I often wonder if she
thought I felt forgotten or left out by Katerina and Lisi, or maybe she
thought I had no money but still wanted ice cream.  
Or maybe she was just very friendly and saw me without ice cream, and the opportunity for her to be kind, I
really don't know, but I thought it was a very nice gesture on her part.

Staying in youth hostels was key to me having such a fun time during my trip.  There is a feeling of camaraderie
amongst the backpackers.  Often they have just arrived from where you are planning to go next, and vice versa,
so you'll often exchange recommendations on things like: hostels to stay in, sights a worth seeing, and the best
local clubs and bars.  Often you'll even befriend other travelers and wind up traveling with them for a day, a
week, or more.  I now have about 12 fellow backpackers from around the world that I will keep in touch with,
and host here in America.  I will also make return trips to visit them.
I honestly wish that all youths, especially Black American
youths, could experience what I have. I learned so much,
saw so many interesting things and places, and made many
new friends. My trip is honestly right there at the top of
the list of the most important, educational, and special
moments in my life.  If I had been 18 - 24 years old when
I took this trip, which most of the backpackers and
hostellers were, I'm certain it would have strongly
influenced the path I took in life.  I might have learned two
or three more languages, and lived or studied abroad for a
while.  My trip through Europe opened my eyes to a
whole new world of ideas, opportunities, and possibilities
that I hadn't before considered or known.
If you do decide to travel to Europe, whether your experience is good or bad, share your anecdotes,
opinions, and experiences with others.  It may help other Black travelers decide whether or not to go.  Me, I
say go.  Conquer any fear or reservations you may have.  I think you'll be happy you did.